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Bitola is situated in the southwest end of the Pelagonia plain, between
the Baba and Nidzhe mountains, at a height between 580 and 660 meters
above the sea level.
Being located on well-known Roman road Via Egnatia, which was connecting
the towns from the Adriatic coast with those on the Aegean coast, Bitola
was the center of numerous historical events which were milestones in
the life and development of the peoples of this region.
Very often destroyed and set on fire, the town persistently recovered
and grew into a bigger, and more beautiful and dignified one.
The town itself was founded by the Slavs in
the very vicinity of Heraclea, in the middle of the 7th century, AD. Its
founders were the Brsyaks - one of the Macedonian/Slav tribes. The name
of the mediaeval town of Bitola as an inhabited place was being
mentioned in very few Slav mediaeval sources and, in Greek, in a
narrative as well as in a legal act. The narrative source was written by
the Byzantine historian of the 11th century, Jovan Skulica. In his
"Short History", among the other events, he mentioned that the Byzantine
czar Vasilie II set on fire Gavrilo's castles in Bitola, when passing
through and demolishing in Pelagonia. The second source written in Greek
is the well-known "GRAMOTA" of Vasilie II from 1019. This document was a
legal act which determined the rights of Ohrid Archibishopric and also
stated the bishops which were to be in the service of the Ohrid Church,
among which Bitola Bishop, too.
In many mediaeval sources, most of the coming from the west, the name
Pelagonia stood for a land mark of Bitola Bishopric, and in some of them
Bitola was known under the name of Heraclea due to the church tradition
i.e. the turning of Heraclea Bishopric into Pelagonian Metropolitan's
Diocese.
In the Middle Ages, Bitola was the church
center of the Pelagonian narrower and wider region. In the middle of the
13th century, the Arabian travels writer Idrizi said in his "Geography"
that Bitola was a significant and beautiful town of an attractive
location.
|
... Bitola -
nature of May,
Bitola - park of joy... |
However, the old location of the town cannot be determined with all
these data given by the mediaeval history and chroniclers.
As a center of the military, political and cultural life, the mediaeval
towns played a very important role in the life of the mediaeval Slavs.
In the first place, they had the importance of fortified sites which
were to defend the region they were situated in. People from the
surrounding area used to look for shelter there in case of a danger.
Therefore, the choice of the location for their founding was of an
extreme importance. In most cases, the mediaeval towns were built on the
top of the hills and on the crossroads of the main communication lines -
both ground and river - going. Their fortification depended on what they
had to defend: a mining or a trading place, a capital, palaces,
monasteries or similar.
In the 14th century, i.e. on the eve of its coming under Turkish rule,
Bitola experienced a powerful booming, and had already had developed
trading links all over the Balkans Peninsula, especially with the big
economic centers: Constantinopole, Salonika, Dubrovnik... Caravans of
most variable goods moved to Bitola from all sides and reverse, from
Bitola to all other centers.
|
... Bitola, oh,
ma, Bitola,
Bitola, ma, a big town,
offer life and joy
in each pub and inn... |
Bitola was conquered by the Turkish in
1382-1383. In his "Delightful Events", the Turkish Chronicle writer of
the 17th century , Khoja Husein put: "...While Prilep fortification was
conquered without any confrontation, forces had to be used to conquer
the one of Bitola..." With a special written order by the Sultan Murat
I, the town was determined to be governed by Evronos bey.
Having been conquered, Bitola was immediately turned into an important
military headquarter because of its strategic significance in this part
of Macedonia.
|
...Last evening
I passed
by Bitola barracks
ben seni severam (I care of you)
dzhok seni severam (I greatly love you)... |
Turkish people started to inhabit the town choosing the closer center
along the river Dragor, i.e. the center of the present city nucleus. The
first official and public institutions such as mosques, Turkish
monasteries, religious schools, inns, and baths were started being built.
|
A walk took me
out
through Bitola, to roam
along its narrow streets,
cobbled whit white stones. |
The Jews, who had been exiled from Spain and Portugal, started to
inhabit the town in the middle of the 16th century. Their moving here
made its development booming.
The flowering of Bitola erected many significant constructions which
stand as ornaments of Bitola even today: Buyuk Bezisten (Covered
Market), Churuk Bezisten (White Fountain), Isak Fekiy Bey Mosque
(1505-1506), Isak Mosque (1508), Hadji Bey Mosque (1521-1522), Kodzha
Ahmed Efendi Mosque (1529), Yeni Mosque (1558-1559), Khazi Haydar Mosque
(1561-1562) and others.
In the 17th century, aside from the evident weakening of the Turkish
Empire, Bitola continued to develop and gain the look of a beautiful
town. The Turkish travelers writer Evliya Chelebiya wrote :
"... at this time, the town has 3000
houses, 900 stores, 40 pubs, a few smaller churches, mosques..."
|
...Do you
remember Vase,
Can you recall the time
we were in Bitola, dear,
sitting at Tumbe Kafe,
drinking fresh beer... |
In the course of the 18th century Bitola was being inhabited by Vlachs,
after the demolition of Moskopole in 1778, and by Abanians and
Macedonians peasants. The growth of the town made Bitola the most
significant economic and cultural center of Macedonia after Salonika.
In the beginning of the 19th century, according to Jovan Hadji
Vasilevitch, who called on in Bitola at the end of the 19th century, the
town had 17 quarters (Upper and Lower Bair, Yeni Quarter, the Bela
Cheshma, Arnaut Quarter, Shirok Sokak Quarter, Jewish Quarter,and others)
with great many markets for certain kinds of cattle and specified goods
(At Pazar - Horse Market, Ovchi Pazar - Sheep Market, Yhitni Pazar -
Cereals Market, Mas Pazar - Cream Market, Pekmez Pazar - Jam Market, and
others). According to him, there were 30 different locations which were
places for certain goods sale or for craftmen's gatherings.
|
... I wish ma, I
could die and
and part my life in Bitola town,
in Bitola Yeni quarter, ma,
in the wine warehouse* (chekutka)... |
|
* "Chekutka" - is
the original old term and already accepted in Bitola as a landmark
of the Yeni quarter. I appologiye to Bitola for using the equivalent
as above but decided to do so in order to modestly convey to the
foreigners the melody of the song and help them understand the
meaning - from the translator. |
The fast development of Bitola was
particularly being experienced with its turning into a center of
European Turkey in 1831 (Rumelian Vilayet). This initiated stationing of
30.000 soldiers, a large military administrative apparatus and
consequently a more intense trade traffic.
As a military administrative center of the European Turkey, in 1851 it
became the site of foreign diplomatic branches, consulates,
vice-consulates, trade-agencies, etc. The presence of the foreign
diplomatic branches undoubtedly meant the presents of Europe in Bitola.
Those fast changes in the economic, political, and cultural life were
followed by changes in the way of life and the local inhabitants'
opinion. The rich Christian families, who emulated the European
countries, started developing the live trade and making colossal
constructions, educational and similar, by which they made a great
contribution in changing Bitola' s looks from oriental into one of the
European cities.
From the second half of the 19th century through the first decade of the
20th century, Bitola cherished strong economic connections with London,
Vienna, Belgrade, Drach, Salonika, Constantinopole, Alexandria, and
other cities. Those connections were being maintained by most of the
famous Bitola families> the Ikonomot, the Robevi, the Geras, the
Danabash, the Rizovi and many others werre introducing the European
influences into the styles of life, the fashion and the conduct in
Bitola.
|
...Say, Irie,
tell me
what to buy you from Bitola... |
The traditional oriental clothes, the household utensils and ornaments
were changed with the European ones.
|
Bitola beys in
cafes were sitting
bending over gayettes, black coffee were drinking,
of politics and women were talking... |
All those changes reflected themselves in the architecture of the houses,
which were built in European styles.
The social and the economic flourishing of Bitola did not last long: the
deep changes in the economic structure of the Ottoman Empire, and
particularly the military-political and economic pressure from the Great
Powers over Turkey, reflected with catastrophic consequences in the
regions of Macedonia which was rather an advanced province at that time.
In the beginning of the 20th century, the inner friction in the Turkish
Empire took harder which soon found expression in the Ilinden Uprising
in 1903, the Young-Turkish Revolution in 1908, and the Balkan Wars in
1912 and 1913.
As a center of the revolutionary district, Bitola had a distinctively
decisive role in the Ilinden events. At the same time, it was the site
of foreign diplomatic branches, that informed Europe and the world of
the situation and the revolutionary events as well as of the
intolerability of the Turkish authoritarian regime. Discontent overcome
the Turkish progressive high-brows which was reflected in The Young/Turkish
Revolution and thus made Bitola a center of the events once again.
The Balkan Wars (1912-1913) and the division of Macedonia among Serbia,
Bulgaria and Greece, were the most tragic moments in the history of the
Macedonian people and the town of Bitola.
|
... A slave of
the Turks have I been,
A slave for five centuries,
Now trumpets play on three sides
for the Greek, Serbs and Ghanys
to make an alliance on the Balkans
and divide Macedonia into three parts... |
In the period between 1915 and 1918, after the World War I, Bitola
became a foothold of the military actions on the Macedonian front. The
town of Bitola, once a beauty and "a town of the consulates", suffered
enormous damages and demolitions.
|
Macedonia is
weeping,
Europe is a curse
I am a Slav maiden
a Slav Macedonian,
a country of wealth,
for the robbers - a tempt,
for the dividers - a calling scent... |
Between the two world wars, Bitola as a frontier town of the Vardar
Macedonia, belonging to the Kingdom of the Serbs, Croats and Slovenes
faced its own economic, political and cultural decline.
|
...Come along
Macedonian brothers,
take a red flag
a red flag for freedom... |
Bitola' s contribution to the antifascist fight and the People's War for
Freedom from the Fascist conqueror was estimated as: damage and victims
of the bombardment on 3 Nov. 1940, the genocide over 3000 Jews in March
1943, 606 arrests, 251 people sentenced for the involvement n the fight
against the Bulgarian fascist, 120 internees, 600 deaths n the fronts
and 500 wounded.
Bitola has been cherishing a great respect for the victims and the
martyrs of the World War II.
And , prides itself not upon their contribution to their national war
for freedom and against the fascists that the Macedonians fought to free
both Bitola with the surrounding area and Macedonia in general, but
particularly on their contribution to the creation of the Macedonian
state - Republic of Macedonia.
The victims and the damage were the very taxes that Bitola paid to gain
freedom.
The taste of the history experienced makes Bitola a dignified town of
today. Persistently following the inclinations conceived centuries ago,
in high fighting spirits, its strong people managed to revive and renew
their own state as well as to retain their presence realized as their
today's life in an independent sovereign state - Republic of
Macedonia. |